My last trip to Asia was fun. But there is a ton that was hidden from the camera. This last trip really put me through the ringer. I just wish my luck worked this well on lottery tickets.

My first mistake on this journey was not taking my own damn advice - give yourself time! Everyday something was on the itinerary. There was no breathing room whatsoever. Since one of my many rules when traveling is to never visit the same place more than once, I wanted to make sure I could do as much as possible. I consider myself to be very disciplined to handle this back to back scheduling but it hurt me in the end. Museums, DMZ tour, temples, markets, fly out early in the morning to Manila, take a 10 hour bus to Banaue...bam bam bam. I mean it just kept going. I even had to cut short my amazing dinner with my friend Che whom I hadn't seen in years because I failed to give myself considerable time to catch the next flight out to Manila. But one must remember

Give yourself time

You haven't seen the world, yet you're still alive. You're not going to die if you don't see everything. Enjoy the moment. Traveling like a contestant on the Amazing Race can really suck out what you're supposed to take in.

Xochilimilco canals where I found pulque cursed by Montezuma!

The other part that made this trip the hardest journey in my life is that I caught a vile stomach bug from the underworld. And this is not the first time. I first caught one in Mexico. I was on a row boat in city called Xochimilco, México just 30 mins outside of Mexico City. On the banks there were farmers selling a drink made from a Maguey plant that is native to Mexico called Pulque. I had it a few days before and knew that I wanted more before catching my flight back to Nashville. Heartburn, sulphuric burbs, paralyzing cramps and violent hacking in the toilet the next morning before my flight almost made me miss the plane. I'll never forget it because Lauryn Hill was playing at the Ryman Auditorium downtown the night I returned. I was with my mom and started feeling better because I refused to eat anything. As I grew hungry I decided to risk it with a hotdog. Then that dreadful curse reminded me that it wasn't just a dream. It must have been the pulque that I got off the banks in Xochimilco. The farmer must have used local water to make that batch. That was the only unprocessed fluid I ingested. I ended up having to see a doctor to get it taken care of. Most Americans and Europeans are not used to non processed water. So water from naturally occurring sources can really harm us if we are not careful.

Similar story in the Philippines except it was rice wine from a local village that did the damage. Local water is used in the fermentation process. You'd think I'd have learned from the first experience but as one who's trying all kinds of different foods and fruits and exotic flavors, it's easy to forget. I say all this to say that

If you don't know where it came from, don't drink it.

Sometimes other countries don't have strict rules about prescription antibiotics and you can find them at a local pharmacy. In my case the pharmacist in Banaue, Philippines gave me what I needed right away. But I wouldn't ever risk that again. I imagine it's possible for certain places to not be as willing to give them out or to not have exactly what it is you need. Since my doctor knows that I travel, he gives me emergency antibiotics to have available in case situations like these ever occur. Stomach bugs are no joke. So it's a good idea to be medically prepared. And that's the next travel tip...

be medically prepared before you leave.

Another hurdle that I encountered during my return flight from Seoul to Nashville was a sinus infection. I know right!!!! I told you this trip was rough. I was so congested that my ears wouldn't equalize to the cabin pressure. One ear in particular felt like it was going to explode. I thought I needed to go to the hospital. When I landed in Seoul from Manila I told the nearest taxi driver to take me to the hospital. I didn't care what it cost cause I was in so much pain. I got to the hospital and I couldn't get fixed cause it was unbelievably expensive. 500 USD to be seen. 500 USD to get treatment. 1000 USD total to fix my ear before my outbound flight to Nashville. I wasn't prepared for that so I was on the verge of tears. But there was good news. Turned out that there was an emergency clinic on the bottom level of the Seoul airport. I wish I had known before paying the taxi driver 200 USD to take me to the hospital. I'm still sour as hell about that. I got to the clinic in the airport and the doctor checked out my ear and was like whoaaaa!! My eardrum was severely bulged like a balloon and full of fluid. She gave me antibiotics and a steroid to reduce swelling. She said in 24 hours I should be ok to fly. My flight was in 12. Oye! Total clinic cost 36 USD. Better than 1000 the hospital was asking for.

Because I also experienced this, my doctor prescribes me nasil steroids and antibiotics to alleviate any symptoms of sinus infection. This as well as Aphrin, an over the counter nasil antihistamine, solves the problem. I can say for certain that this works because on my last flight to Haiti in December I had a sinus infection and the steroids and Aphrin helped to allow my ears adjust to the cabin pressure.

Talk to your doctor to see if they can help you get antidiarrheal tablets, antibiotics, and inflammatory steroids. These are a good first aid. Aphrin is available over the counter at most pharmacies.

The land of the Aztecs. The Teotihuacans were a people that thrived for hundreds of years starting around 200AD. Central part where the pyramids stand served as a sacred place of study, worship and sacrifice. The intricate architecture of the pyramids suggests they were advanced in technology. Some argue alien technology might have played a role. And according to my guide, Sofia, more and more evidence is supporting the latter. No matter, these monuments are truly a world wonder and are worth a visit.

The hostel I stayed at was beautiful and family owned. One of Casa Roa's hosts, Sofia, was the tour giver. She was also an archaeologist who knew the ins and outs of Teotihuacan. It was an 80-minute drive from México City to the pyramids. When we arrived, I was shocked. Stunned at the sheer size of the Pyramid of the Sun that I could see down the valley of the dead. The valley of the dead is a 3-mile long avenue that extends north and south almost ending at the Pyramid of the Sun. It got its name from the tomb like mounds that line the avenue.

Valley of the dead leads just up to the left of the Pyramid of the Sun. Pyramid of the Moon is seen to the far right. Shot from the Pyramid of the Sun.

Before heading to the Pyramid of the Sun, Sofia showed me to the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl, which had 11 other pyramids surrounding it in a square like formation. I couldn’t guess what they were for. She explained that the Aztecs mapped out the sky and understood that there were 12 months in a year. Quetzalcoatl was a God honored with human sacrifices based on a ritualized calendar. Roughly 200 human sculls of men and women rest underneath the Quetzalcoatl temple.

Twelve of these half pyramids were once full sized and surrounded the sacrificial platform (Agosada) from which I captured this photo. — Twelve of these half pyramids were once full sized and surrounded the sacrificial platform (Agosada) from which I captured this photo.

Agosada sacrificial platform

When we got to Quetzalcoatl, she showed me how climb the steps. The slope of the steps was extremely steep. They were only a few inches long. One must zig zag up in order to use his entire foot on the stairs and not fall to his death. I’m more sure-footed than a billy goat and I almost bit it hard at one point. Be careful!

Steps leading up to a platform to view Quetzalcoatl

Quetzalcoatl is The Temple of the Feathered Serpent God. The serpent is referenced throughout the park. He represented the flow of energy and life. The steps are decorated in the likeness of the serpent God, Quetzlcoatl, and the God of fertily and water, Tloloc. The pyramid can only be views from the sacrificial platform, called the Andosada, before it. The pyramid is protected because it is the last standing pyramid in the park with the outer layer still in tact.

Tloloc (Left), Quetzalcoatl (Right) — Tloloc (Left), Quetzalcoatl (Right)

The pyramids outer layer still has some visible color to it. Mostly red. The eyes where dragon glass because Teotihuacan was obsidian rich. The layers of the pyramid were also decorated with sea shells. Sea shell designs honored Tloloc who provided fresh water and fresh fish from the sea. Though Teotihuacan sits in the center of Mexico, the city had access to same-day fresh fish. The emperor had relay runners on both sides of the city that would relay the catch from either side, Caribbean and Pacific, and would have it in time for supper.

What boggles me more than anything is how they got the heavy stone heads all the way up the pyramid. Not knowing this is like a magician not telling me his secret. Most of the sites at Teotihuacan are still a mystery.

Cement with tiny rocks was used to fill gaps in the underlying layers of the pyramids.

Just outside the center of the calendar was a closed off portion of the exhibit. She said that her archaeologist colleagues as well as the Mexican government had discovered a tunnel that runs underneath Quetzalcoatl. She said that the Mexican government was trying to prevent information from leaking to the public about what was underneath for reasons that I could not quite understand but something having to do with defying much of what we know about religion. Skulls. Giant elongated skulls that don’t appear to belong to any human species is what she told me. She said that her colleagues showed her into the tunnel so she could see them with her own eyes and what she saw was absolutely profound and unlike anything she had ever seen. The skulls would suggest that a species with a higher intellect than that of a human could have played a role in the development of this civilization. It's a possible lead on how they had access to clean running water in the surrounding towns, miles away from the lake that is now Mexico City, and knew how to move massive 10-ton stones upwardly to build monuments to the sky. I didn’t feel that I was being sold anything. She had no reason to devise. I was intrigued by her account. I believe she was telling me the truth.

Pyramid of Quetzlcoatl in the back. In front is a place of sacrifice. In between the two is a white tarp that covers where the tunnel had been excavated and closed off.

We left to go see the main attraction, The pyramid of the sun. Before arriving at the entrance - merchants everywhere. They were selling everything you could think of. Water, umbrellas, hats, clothes, toys, statues, jewelry... I like to do my shopping after the attraction. Walking away wasn’t hard. I wasn’t harassed. Perhaps they get a plentitude of good business. Even in the early morning I could see hundreds of people climbing the pyramid. I had seen Chichen Itza when I was a wee little lad. But it does not come close to this. This pyramid was magnificent. Much larger than the any picture tried to illustrate when I was researching it. It seemed to have more mass than any of the buildings in my home city. And this was build 1,500 years ago!

Climbing this monster took a good 20 minutes. One needs rope and steady feet to climb the steep slope.

The Pyramid of the Sun was used as an observatory to map the stars. Where the valley of the dead ends and almost to the pyramid of the moon were giant pools of water that were used to reflect the night sky. From the top of the pyramid they could map the night sky and the stars.

At the top, the tradition is to raise your arms high to gods for good luck.

At the time, I did not notice the heart shaped cloud above me.

Between the Sun and Moon pyramids are more merchants. great opportunities to buy cheap earrings bracelets, statues, hats and more. I bought some green earrings for the equivalent of 50 cents.

Topless pyramids line the alley that leads up to the Pyramid of the Moon.

Pyramid of the Moon had a fantastic view of Sun Pyramid and the Valley of the Dead.

Sofia showed to some local spots around Teotihuacan. Our first stop was at a local bar/restaurant that served pulque. Pulque is a local beverage that is made only in Mezoamerica where the Maguay cactus plant grows. The beverage is made from the Maguay's fermented sap. It looks like milk but it is extremely viscous. It's not creamy at all. It's sweet and carbonated like thick soda. I wish it was made available outside of Mexico. It would be a very popular drink.

They also make candy from Maguay as well. The candy was my favorite. It was so sweet and full of flavor. It reminded me of those dried fruit rolls you see at the international markets. But much sweeter, chewier, and not as tangy.

All the walking produced an appetite. Next on the agenda was a local restaurant not too far from the pyramids. Founded in 1919, La Gruta is a famous local restaurant that once served as Aztecan refrigerator to store fish and other goods. The restaurant is naturally cooled and very beautiful.

Though they offer traditional delicacies, there are times I don't want to be so traditional. I like to try things I have never tried before. One side of the menu offered exotic foods like ant larvae and caterpillars. My adventurous nature rolled the die with chinicuil and esamoles.

The chinicuil was not what I was expecting. I was expecting meaty slugs packed with rich Mexican flavors of chili and pineapple or something of the sort. I was incorrect in my assumption. They were extremely dry, greasy, exoskeletons with absolutely no flavor. The only flavor I could taste was char from whatever pan they were cooked it. I dipped them in guacamole to see if it would provide any pleasure to my taste buds but that didn't help. I wasn't grossed out. The dish was just flat out not good. The escamoles were not any better. Unlike the flavorless caterpillars, the ant larvae had a strong nutty flavor that lingered in my mouth well after the swallow. They were soft. I at them with lettuce and that helped to smooth the nuttiness that was a bit harsh. I honestly was expecting to be blown away by a chef's creative ability to take something that's generally considered unstomachable and turn into something rich and pleasant. Neither of these dishes lived up to that or came close. But I am so glad I got to live on the edge a little.

Sofia's dish on the other hand was much more enjoyable. She ordered mole covered turkey. The mole (chocolate/cocoa based sauce) was more savory than sweet. The turkey wasn't overcooked or too dry. It was just right. The mole sauce complimented the turkey very well.

Along with my food I had Xoconastle. It is a fruity alcoholic beverage made from the same maguay fruit as is pulque. It was like a light smoothie. I could not get enough of it. Everything that comes from maguay is excellent. It must have come from the gods.

An unforgettable day. Teotihuacan is a place I'll never forget. The history is so outstanding and still a mystery, it's hard not to awe at it all.

When you come to Teotihuacan you will be amazed and in for a treat. There is a lot of information to learn. Don't forget to do your research. Researching prior to visiting helps understanding the history. A great place to visit either before or after your journey -- preferably before if you haven't already done research -- to Teotihuacan is Mexico City's National Museum of Anthroplogy. The museum is very large. Plan to spend an entire day. There you can learn a great deal of about the rich history of the Mezoamerican peoples of Mexico. The museum is a must see.

There are secrets in this world I cannot wait to uncover. Teotihuacan is decent sized piece to the puzzle. On to the next destination..